The sunny city of Almeria is located in southeastern Spain in the Andalusia region. Almeria is the city with the most hours of sunshine per year and is not far from the Tabernas desert (Sierra Nevada), the driest place in Europe. We are in a place where the sun is clearly in charge 365 days a year.
Discover Almeria via the N340
Almeria is indeed a holiday destination but not really popular compared to many other destinations in Spain. If you drive along the coast of southern Spain from the Costa Blanca (Málaga) by car and stay away from the highway for a while, you will be surprised by the beautiful nature and impressive rock formations on the coast. In that regard, the N340 is a great route to drive. In any case, it is advisable to always drive as close to the waterline as possible during this route. That’s exactly when you come across places that will surprise you in an area you won’t visit very often.
You will hardly meet western Europeans along this route unless it is a lost camper. It is clear that we are in a part of Spain where everything is slightly different and which has not yet been discovered by Spanish sunbathers.
El Mar de Plastico, the vegetable garden of Europe
About 50 to 60 kilometers before Almeria, something changes in the landscape and white fields appear. At least that’s how it looks from a distance. Whole fields and sometimes small villages surrounded by waves of white nature. Once at the edge of this area you see that they are a kind of greenhouses, but made of tent cloth or plastic. The Spaniards call it El Mar de Plastico, translated as the sea of plastic.
The immense tents are completely closed off with a 06 number here and there in capital letters. Also striking are the huge signs in the landscape that mainly advertise peppers, courgettes, tomatoes and cucumbers. It may be obvious. Who wonders where the vegetables in the supermarket come from? Indeed from this vast area that is also called the vegetable garden of Europe.
The total area is about 70 km long (and 15 km wide) and consists of 30,000 hectares (three times more than in the whole of the Netherlands) with greenhouses made mainly of plastic. Annually good for about 4 billion kilos of fruit and vegetables. You can hardly speak of a landscape anymore.
The special culture of Almeria
Almeria is clearly a port city. This means that the coastline of the city does not appear in lists of the most beautiful places in Spain, even though it has a large boulevard with a beautiful beach on the east side of the city. The beauty of the city is mainly to the left and right of the Ramblas and above the city, with the impressive Alcazaba or Almeria. It is also the city where the tapas are free (as long as you order a drink) and where you can work out (for free) in many places on the street.
Almeria is a city with many faces. At the top on the west side of the city you will find a lot of culture and history and you will also find the large harbor and the old town. On the east side you will find the boulevard and the beaches that continue to Cabo de Gata, a vast nature reserve.
It is a city that fascinates you more every hour that you are there and immerses you, as it were, in the local Spanish culture of this area. It is a city in which there is no such thing as ‘hurry’, a city where you mainly eat and drink on the street and a city that wakes up late and only goes to sleep after midnight.
Discover this special city on the basis of five great tips.
1. La Alcazaba: the imposing fortress of Almeria
Almeria has known many Arab and Moorish influences. The city’s name is derived from the Arabic word Al-Mariya and means ‘the mirror of the sea’. These influences can be found in the architecture, the way the city is built, in the shops, but even more when you visit La Alcazaba or Almeria. It is one of the largest and oldest Moorish fortresses in Spain and can be seen almost everywhere due to its position above the city.
It is therefore also a place where you have fantastic views over the city and the sea. The word Alcazaba (in Arabic al-qasbah) means fortress wall. That of the Alcazaba is over 1,400 meters long and is one of the largest Muslim constructions in Spain, along with the Alhambra in Granada.
A popular filming location
In addition to the historical value that La Alcazaba has, its sheer size has also made it a popular filming location. Indiana Jones the Last Crusade and Never Say Never Again with James Bond were recorded here. For many, the Alcazaba is the #1 attraction of Almeria. But it is precisely the combination of the special culture of the city and its unique location that makes this large fortress a location that you should definitely visit.
The best time of day to visit is early in the morning. When the sun is high in the sky here, it can be really hot, especially in summer with temperatures well above 40 degrees. Also because the stones absorb the heat and start to feel like small heaters, as it were.
Another important tip is that you should especially wear good walking shoes. Ultimately, a visit to La Alcazaba also involves a lot of climbing and clambering and don’t forget to take enough water with you.
2. Muralla de Jayran
Almost next to the Alcazaba on a hill (known as Mount Laham) are the Muralla de Jayrán. They are the city walls of Almería that were once part of the Musalla district. These city walls connect seven towers, three square, built by the Moors, and four semicircular, built by Templars in the 11th century to defend the city. Unfortunately, the path that leads up from the base of the Alcazaba is not accessible to visitors.
You can visit the city walls via a road on the east side. Once at the top you will find the Cerro de San Cristóbal, a large statue of Jesus which is lit up at night. The statue is made of Macael marble and is a symbol of blessing for the city and the Mediterranean.
3. Plaza de la Constitucion
As in many cities, you will find a central square in the heart of Almeria. Strangely enough, this square has two names. The Plaza de la Constitución and also Plaza Vieja. The last name comes from the time of the Moors when this beautiful square was still a kind of market square. The Plaza de la Constitución is still used today for all kinds of festivities. On the square you will find a hotel outside some restaurants.
This hotel has a kind of penthouse on top of the roof where you have a great view of the city day and night. It takes a bit of effort to book this, but thanks to some kind words it resulted in an unforgettable place to stay.
4. The Cathedral of Almeria: Catedral de la Encarnición de Almería
A stone’s throw from Plaza de la Constitución you will find Almeria Cathedral. The special building does not really look like a church because of its enormous walls, but rather like a fortress, especially because of the flat roof. In Moorish times there was a mosque here that did not survive a major earthquake. For this special construction was chosen as security. During its construction it was several times a target for pirates.
Unfortunately it was closed during our visit. renovation work. In any case, the place is more than worth a visit.
5. El Cable Ingles
While strolling along the harbor you will come across an exceptional structure known as El Cable Inglés, translated as the English pier. Built in 1902, this immense steel structure was used in the last century (until 1973) to transport iron from the nearby train station to the cargo ships in the port of Almeria. It is now part of Spain’s industrial heritage.
The name El Cable Inglés refers to the original British owner “The Alquife Mines Railway Ltd”. When you see it you expect that there is an entrance somewhere so that you can walk over it, but unfortunately that is not possible.
Free tapas in Almeria
It takes some getting used to and feels quite uncomfortable at first. You order a beer and you are immediately asked which tapas you want with it. The inconvenience is that the tapas are free. And you can also choose. There are varieties for which you sometimes have to pay a euro, but still. In Almeria it is in any case a tradition. The many tapas bars open after 20:00. Sometimes there are long lines. And where nobody is standing, exactly, so you shouldn’t be there.
You buy off the inconvenience by giving a hefty tip. Nobody really knows how and where it comes from. It has always been that way and will never change. So free tapas.
Almeria as a holiday destination
A visit to the southern Spanish city of Almería is more than a great experience. Here you will experience Spain in a completely different way. The region – not just the city – has its own culture. What is striking is the peace that you also see in the people. Almeria is certainly not isolated as a destination. Malaga is barely two hours away via the autoroute. However, if you choose the route along the coast, you can easily spend a day there with a few stops. This way you get a lot more of this southeastern point of the Iberian Peninsula. It is a place where I personally definitely want to come back, not only for the city but even more for the impressive surroundings.
